2018 Garden Plan

I love planning.  Every year, I put together a garden plan on paper and pencil because there’s something super enjoyable about drawing up a plan.  Now, keeping with that plan and documenting how it goes throughout the year, that part sucks and I rarely do it.

This year, I drafted a plan during the first week of February.  Key steps for building my garden plan:

  1. Identify topics of interest I may want to explore this year.
  2. Determine what I will grow.
  3. Map out the beds.
  4. Order seeds.
Step 1: Topics of Interest

A few of the things I would like to explore, research, and/or (re)try this year:

  • Soil testing
  • Composting
  • Animal control
  • Pest management
  • Tea ladder
  • Melon patch
  • Side yard bed
  • 3 sisters
  • Flame weeding

Each of these warrants their own post(s), so I’ll just note that they are on my mind at this point.

Step 2: What to Grow

Every year I make a laundry list of things I want to grow.  And every year I regret some things and wish I had grown others.  So, this year I devised a system – The Reitz Farm Value Index.

Essentially, I made a list of everything I could grow.  Each thing was rated on effort (successfulness of past attempts, length of time to grow and harvest, area consumed in the garden) and affinity (my wife and I each ranked how much we liked each item on a scale of 1-5).

Essentially, each item has a higher index score if it takes low effort (historically successful, less time, less space) and/or if we both really like eating it.  The highest scoring item was lettuce – it’s super easy to grow and we both love it.

I then reviewed the list.  I still made a few manual alterations.  For example, for the first year, I won’t be growing cauliflower or broccoli.  We love them, but my past success has been poor, they consume a lot of space, and they have been huge pest attractors.  Not worth it.

Step 3: Map the Beds

Determining how many of the top items I can grow is dependent on space.  So, the next step is to map out my beds.  I have three 8’x4′ beds that are end-to-end and a small sunflower bed next to our alley that can grow 11 sunflowers in it.

There are a couple keys to maximizing space – growing up, co-planting and seasonal alternation.

Each year, I build a lot of structures and grow vegetables up the structures to maximize yield from minimum ground space.  This year, I built structures for my tomatoes.  I use 8′ stakes to build a structure and always use indeterminate (vining) tomato varieties that will grow up and back down the stakes.

Instead of building more structures for other plants, this year I am using some natural structures through co-planing.  Co-planting allows you to grow multiple, complementary plants in the same space.  This year I am co-planting:

  • Carrots & Radishes (radishes grow quicker and when harvested will loosen the soil around the carrots)
  • Corn, Beans, Squash (bean vines will grow up the corn stalks and squash vines create ground cover that prevents weeds)
  • Sunflowers & Cucumbers (cucumber vines will grow up the sunflower stems)

I’m also cognizant of the seasonal timing of each plant and will alternate in seedlings for one plant as another is completing its harvest.  For example, around the time that it’s getting too warm for my spinach and kale, it will be time to put in zucchini and yellow squash – so I will grow them in the same space.

Step 4: Seeds!

I often forget to plan until it is time to plant.  This year, because I was ahead of the game, I looked around a bit and decided to order seeds from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.  I like their mission to preserve seed varieties, and there’s something special about heirloom varieties that you don’t find in most mass-produced produce.

All of my seeds arrived in under a week and came with a few free packets of bonus seeds.  Thanks Baker Creek!

And that’s it.  This is the plan I’ll work from this year.  I’ll make gametime adjustments as needed, but I’m excited to get started!

What happened to my 2017 colony?

As noted, my Spring 2017 colony did not survive into Spring 2018.  The weekend after discovering my dead colony, I inspected and cleaned out the hive to understand what happened.

The first thing I noticed was that the colony seemed to be frozen in time from when I had last opened the hive 4 weeks prior.  The cluster was in the same place – the pollen patties on top were untouched.  Something had happened – an event – either during the time I had done my January inspection or immediately after.

I then noticed that the pollen patty I had added in January was really melty on top.  And there was quite a bit of mold in the hive.

It was at this point that I had a horrible realization.  I had frozen the winter pollen patty prior to winter.  I don’t know why.  I thought I read somewhere to do this, but I can’t find any proof of that.  So most likely, I just thought, “Ew, these winter patties are gross and sticky.  If I freeze them they won’t make a mess.”  During the January inspection, I put in an extra patty (which probably wasn’t even really needed based on their strong food stores) direct from the freezer.

When I closed the hive, the warmth generated by the colony would have quickly thawed the patty creating a moisture bomb inside the hive.  The weak, late winter colony couldn’t handle it and was killed.  So, in trying to help make sure my bees had enough food to last the winter, I made a rookie mistake and killed them all.

I cleaned out the hive and sat it out in the sun to dry out (and stop mold growth).  My next colony will be able to use the woodenware from my last colony.  The bees will easily clean out the mold, and they will have a jumpstart given that I have 2 deep boxes of built out comb with extra honey stores to give them.

Possible Other Causes

I did also rule out other possible causes of death for my colony.  First, varroa mites.  There were a few mites on the bottom board, but not enough to honestly be concerning.  Also given that it happened so suddenly, I don’t believe varroa was the cause.

I was also a little concerned about the possibility of foul brood.  It’s not likely, but if the hive was infected with foul brood, I would not be able to reuse the boxes or the frames – they would need to be burned.  My main cause for foul brood concern was that there were brood cells with sunken, perforated caps (a sign of foul brood) and when I was removing parts of the comb with brood there was a gross, grey goo.

The good news is that the USDA has a bee research laboratory that offers a free service.  You can send them a sample of suspicious comb and they will test it for disease (instructions here).  I got the results back quickly – free and clear of foul brood.  There’s something very comforting about being certain.

So, I’m pretty confident that the demise of my hive came from that frozen patty.  Lesson learned.

New bees should come in late May!

The Reitz Farm – Now a Blog

I’d like to better document my gardening and beekeeping activities – if for no one other than myself. Currently, my only public record of my gardening activities is via #thereitzfarm on Instagram.

I also found over the last year that people are interested and even invested in my bees.  I started beekeeping in April 2017 with the arrival of my first package of bees .  Toward the fall, I started using Facebook Live to record videos of hive inspections.  People seemed to enjoy seeing the bees and maybe learning a little more about them.

As I prepare for a new garden season, starting a blog seems like a nice way to organize my thoughts and share things that are happening on the Reitz Farm.

I also discovered this past week that my hive did not survive the winter.  A huge disappointment, which you can hear in my voice in the video below.  Most likely I accidentally caused a moisture issue during an early inspection in January when I added a frozen pollen patty, but I’ve also sent comb samples for testing.  So, more to come on the final reason why my hive died.

So, I’ll be starting a new hive this year.  The silver lining to losing my hive is that it gives me an opportunity to document what the first year of beekeeping looks like (even though it’s technically my second year).